Mont Saint Michel. A ilha de Victor Hugo

Mont Saint Michel.A Inspiração de Victor Hugo

MONT SAINT MICHEL. A ILHA DE VICTOR HUGO.

Para quem vem pela costa, tanto de Saint Malo ou de Bayeux, no meio da neblina, o vulto da abadia ganha dimensão à medida que a distância encurta.

Ninguém pode ficar indiferente à medida que aquela ilhota de granito perdida no meio da baía, entre Bretanha e Normandia, fica mais perto, ao nosso alcance.

Desde o século VIII, quando os primeiros monges chegaram, inicia-se ciclo de peregrinações que não termina. No dia 4 de dezembro as comemorações atingem o clímax. É dia de São Miguel, o arcanjo protetor, o padroeiro do local.

O oratório inicial, desenvolvido sobre antiga abadia da época carolingeana, ganha construções romanescas e góticas. A grandeza e o esplender das edificações ganham a admiração de todos. A agulha atual da igreja aponta com orgulho para o céu.

Não foi fácil a construção, blocos de granito vindos de longe, distâncias enormes, dificuldades de acesso. A variação das marés isola a ilha em certos momentos, quando bancos de areias movediças impedem o acesso por terra.

Local íngreme, mais de 80 metros de inclinação, até hoje exige esforços dos viajantes para alcançara capela principal . Perdemos a conta dos degraus que precisamos vencer.

A indústria da fé, a venda de imagens, de santinhos, de relíquias ajuda na criação de estalagem, hospedarias e de restaurantes.

Aos poucos, fortificações, muros, torreões e portas de acesso são agregados. Abadia, igreja, fortaleza, ruelas estreitas começam a tomar forma.

Pela posição geográfica, pelas defesas naturais, o Mont Saint Michel nunca foi capturado. Mesmo na guerra dos 100 anos, apesar das tentativas, os ingleses, com suas bombardas de ataque não conseguiram tomar a “Maravilha”, outra denominação de St.- Michel-au-Pèril-de-la-Mer.

Os ingleses forneciam salvo-condutos, mediante pagamento, para os que vinham em peregrinação: nobres ,burgueses, camponeses e até mendigos que eram recebidos e alimentados pela igreja.

Quantos relatos de afogamentos, de pessoas engolidas nas armadilhas criadas pelas marés.

O escritor Victor Hugo, numa das suas fugas para o exílio, no verso L’enlisement , descreve a lenta agonia de infeliz capturado pelos perigos da baia de San Michel.

Com execução de barragem moderna, com nova ponte de acesso de 2014, em parte se estabilizou o relevo da costa. Antes, pelos efeitos das descomunais marés da região, o curso dos rios costeiros deslocavam-se ao acaso.

– Loucura dos rios. Agora Saint Michel está na Normandia – expressão dos residentes bretões, sempre rivais dos normandos.

Necessário pernoitar em Saint Michel, pelo menos uma noite, para conhecer segredos tão bem guardados. Circular pelas muralhas, acompanhar o comércio das pequenas lojas, tomar aquele café ou apreciar a refeição da noite, vendo as ondas do mar avançarem pela vastidão da baía.

Escolher a melhor posição para foto. Da “Ponte de L´Avancée – única entrada, da Torre Boucle, da Tour Gabriel – são tantas as possibilidades; dos jardins da abadia, da Capela de St. Aubert.

Os ângulos, os efeitos variam com a luminosidade e a inclinação do sol.

Depois é preciso subir até o topo, quantos degraus e escadas? Não contei. Depois as criptas, os subterrâneos, o refeitório, descobrir detalhes góticos sobre vestígios romanescos. A sala dos cavaleiros recorda a Ordem Militar de São Miguel, fundada em 1469 por Luís XI.

A sala dos hóspedes alojou reis como François I. Não era fácil levar mantimentos para aquelas alturas; o aprovisionamento, algo complicado. Mesmo nos dias de hoje é tarefa difícil. As ruelas, os acessos, são estreitos. Os veículos dos turistas ficam em estacionamentos bem distantes. Necessário ter reserva em hotel para ter obter senha de acesso.

Como um desejo, mesmo sonho, foi possível o alojamento numa antiga residência; escada em espiral, salas pequenas, janelas estreitas para todos os cantos. O exterior mostrava a face de centenas de anos, mas o interior fora modernizado.

– Sonhos não tem preço – frase agora relembrada.

A época da decadência, quando foi transformada em prisão, o período negro da Revolução Francesa, são ecos de passado para esquecer.

Mont Saint Michel é lugar que devemos visitar antes de morrer. Como Victor colocou em verso imortal- L’énlisement-, alguns cuidados são necessários para os que saem das trilhas e desconhecem os perigos que vem de longe. As areias movediças engolem os descuidados.

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