Província esquecida. La Rioja

La Rioja

La Rioja

Produtora de vinhos de altura, o Pinot Noir e a Sirah, estrelas a nos tentar. Entre 1.000 e 1.400 metros os vinhedos acompanham as curvas das montanhas, espremidos entre as rochas e as estradas, elevam-se aos poucos. A subida gradual, lenta é interrompida quando se aproxima curva, outra bodega está preparada para receber mais um intruso: Lomas Blanca, Loa Navarro, Casa Índia, Doña Emilia, são os cartazes que aparecem pela “ruta”.

A cidade, pequena, antiga, com igrejas e prédios coloniais, respeita com rigor o horário da sesta. O calor sempre intenso, interrompe as atividades pelas 13:00 horas. Só após as 17:30 ou mesmo 18:00 horas as lojas, os negócios reabrem suas portas.

Horário sagrado, ninguém circula pelas ruas. Apenas turistas desavisados, alguns curiosos burlam a lei. Até os parquímetros da cidade param. Durante a “siesta” não há obrigações de pagamento, o estacionamento é livre.

Cidade de caudilhos, os nomes de Facundo Quiroga e de El Chacho Peñaloze ressurgem nas lendas, nas narrativas e nos livros. Vale a pena perguntar.

Vinhos estranhos, desconhecidos, frutas cristalizadas, nozes, doces, geleias são outros atrativos do local.

Antes das 20: 30 horas não há nada para comer. O passante que chegar desprevenido não consegue o seu jantar. Nessa hora, o fogo está apagado, os cozinheiros , os atendentes ainda estão longe, em casa.. Hora de jejum e abstinência, ou de sanduíches improvisados. Não há remédio, os jantares, só bem mais tarde.

Em 1835, numas das peleias locais surge a lenda da Defunta Correa.

A esposa de soldado recrutado à força, como mais uma vivandeira, de pouca saúde, sai no encalço da tropa. Filho ao peito, infante de poucos dias, não sobrevive a queda num desfiladeiro. Mesmo morta, vários dias após, é encontrada. Seu filho, como milagre, ainda vivo, mama em seios murchos, frios, congelados. A narrativa circula entre almas crédulas, uma santa popular emerge como lenda, algo impossível de destruir. Nos momentos de aflição, do desespero seu nome ainda é evocado, como a solução. A fé é o essencial e os donativos, garrafas com água, não poderão faltar.

O certo, ao encontrar pelos caminhos, um dos seus oratórios, é deixar algo como oferta ou,pelo menos ,uma intenção.

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