San Andrés. Uma Ilha no Caribe Colombiano

San Andrés.Uma Ilha no Caribe Colombiano

San Andrés. Uma ilha no Caribe colombiano

Da Praça Barracuda, local onde em bronze se homenageia o lobo dos mares, partem as “chivas”: carroceria de madeira, coloridas, não muito confortáveis, ventilação natural, não há janelas. A circulação pela ilha o objetivo. San Andrés, ilha em formato de cavalo marinho, possui 27 quilômetros de extensão por 15 quilômetros de largura. Em 3 horas podemos desbravar essa ilha de formação coralínea. Movimentos tectônicos ergueram do fundo do mar os blocos de coral. Espaço, agora aprisionado num mar azul, cristalino, apresentando as sete tonalidades da turquesa.

Povo alegre, cor escura na pele, sem preocupações. Não se obedece ao ciclo dos ponteiros do relógio. Não espere pontualidade. Horários? Nem pensar !

Não existe estresse; existe pobreza sem miséria.

Local de atração para turistas da Latino América. Há séculos já atraia piratas ingleses e holandeses. Na ilha de Providência, não muito longe, estabeleceram um acampamento, um SPA pioneiro, onde descansavam. Aguardavam o momento de atacar os galeões espanhóis repletos do botim arrancados das minas de Potosi, da Bolívia, das jazidas de esmeraldas de Muzo na Colômbia e do México e Peru: prata, esmeraldas, ouro.

Atualmente é porto livre, garimpando encontramos pechinchas.

O povo local tem raízes na África, o que se reflete na música, no suor, na comida e no humor local.

Apesar de descoberta pelos espanhóis, em 1511, foi colonizada pelos britânicos. Ao falar o dialeto local – o creóle -, palavras inglesas misturadas a termos africanos. Alegre o ouvir da alma dos nativos.

Missionários americanos, vindos do Alabama, construíram a primeira igreja. Pré-montada, de madeira, branca, no alto da colina é referência saliente, vista de qualquer parte da ilha.

Encontramos uma mesquita no meio de tantas igrejas batistas; o centro de cultura muçulmano está associado aos comerciantes árabes que chegaram aqui há mais de 60 anos. As suas mulheres não usam o véu muçulmano, apenas cobrem os cabelos.

Árvores de fruta-pão estão por todos os lados, trazidas das Índias pelos britânicos, era destinada à alimentação dos escravos. Momento de recordar a famosa rebelião a bordo do “Bounty” – onde a água era destinada a regar, como prioridade, as mudas trazidas de tão longe. Foi outro sucesso de Hollywood, com Marlon Brando e Humphrey Bogart.

Mesmo com menos de 70.000 habitantes, a ilha é considerada superpovoada.

Restrições à vinda de novos habitantes são evidentes. O turismo é a força econômica do momento. Atualmente, na Colômbia, o menor desemprego ocorre em San Andres.

A atração são os mergulhos, os passeios em barco, a visita aos aquários, aos cayes, aos navios encalhados e presos no fundo do mar. Mais de 40 pontos de mergulho, água cristalina, visibilidade fantástica, estão a nossa disposição.

O câmbio atual favorece aos brasileiros. Aqui é muito mais barato do que em Fernando de Noronha; as opções são bem maiores.

No lado oriental da ilha, encontramos praias com areia coralínea, coqueiros à beira mar; do outro lado, a costa enrugada mostra o coral a flor d’água; em pequenas baias, piscinas naturais são ideais para o uso do snorkel. Não se esqueça de trazer alimento para os peixes, modo de atrair os cardumes. Possibilidade de usar escafandro para caminhar pelo fundo do mar é mais uma alternativa.

No extremo sul, mais deserto, as fortes ondas vindas do Caribe, entram por canais existentes no meio de corais, com a pressão jatos de até 11 metros surgem entre os espectadores. Às vezes, apenas sopros de ventos, furiosos, assustam os turistas desavisados. Não deixe “o Hojo” de fora do roteiro.

Mas o ponto alto, ao final da tarde, depois de ser rebocado preso a uma corda, passando por vários pontos de mergulho, perfilando-se ao passar pelo Nicodemus , barco encalhado a mais de 35 anos, é alcançar “John Caye”.

Momento de encontro com as raias cinzentas, imensas, mais de 1,5 metro de envergadura; depois de alimentadas, adoram ser pegas, embaladas nos nossos braços. Parecem se divertir ao contato humano. São dóceis, delicadas. Mesmo dispondo de ferrão defensivo nadam tranquilas entre os espectadores. O difícil é segurá-las por muito tempo, pois sua pele, gosmenta, não propicia sua permanência por muito tempo nos nossos braços.

Só em caso de ataque de tubarões, quando em perigo, ai sim usam a sua defesa pontiaguda. As fotos ficaram fantásticas. A experiência valeu.

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