Tetuan. MercadosÁrabes no Marrocos

Tetuan. Mercados Árabes no Marrocos

Tetuan . Marrocos. Mercados árabes

Na costa do Mediterrâneo , norte da África,Tetuan sempre foi refúgio camarada. Depois da queda do Reino Narita de Granada, em 1492, acolhe os muçulmanos que tinham sido derrotados e não queriam permanecer como súditos dos reis cristãos. Depois do decreto do Cardeal Cisneros é a vez dos judeus espanhóis seguirem a mesma rota. Evitando o batismo forçado , não querendo participar de Espanha homogênea, encontravam novo lar em Tetuan. A partir de 1497, são os irmãos portugueses os novos refugiados – os megarashim

Na antiga Medina , entre muralhas abraçando ruelas em curvas, mercados tradicionais, ocupando calçadas e as frentes das casas, ofertam os seus produtos. Nas paredes lembranças , placas trazem antigas recordações. Referências a rabinos, a casa de anciões , a sinagogas agora fechada, não foram apagadas pelo tempo. Surgem os nomes de Ribi Ytzchak e das sinagogas Beit Din e Yeshivot.

Durante a Segunda Guerra Mundial, o Marrocos, por influência e decisão do Rei Mohamed V, abriu as portas para levas de perseguidos pelo holocausto nazista. Mas, no Marrocos, a paz nas comunidades judaicas ,desde a queda do Primeiro Templo , dependiam da boa vontade do poder dominante. Muitas perseguições e massacres estão anotados a longo dos séculos.

Nas ruelas estreitas, passagens em arco, labirintos onde nossos passos se perdem, descobrimos vetustas padarias ,fornos a lenha produzem no formato redondo a tradicional refeição. Padaria comunitária, onde todos levam para assar os seus pães e biscoitos, é visitada. Deliciosa a amostra devorada, também a fome era razoável.

Pela tradição, a mulher tem obrigação de preparar o pão do seu esposo., o forno comunitário é o responsável pelo cozimento. Marca feita, pelo sinete da esposa, identifica a obrigação depois de pronta.

O comércio não é rico, apenas o essencial, mas apresenta cores interessantes nas roupas e nos tecidos expostos. Artífices, em lojas minúsculas, exercem sua profissão como marceneiros , como alfaiates, como pintores , como cerzidores , como cabeleireiros e muito mais.

No chão das praças, entre gatos preguiçosos , peças de cerâmica , panelas de cobre, trabalhos em madeira ,bugigangas, cobrem os pavimentos.

Cidade branca , cor típica do local , aberturas no azul ou no verde, apresenta para venda , em sacos , os pigmentos necessários para as pinturas não apenas para as paredes ,mas para tecidos e para os fios usados na confecção dos tapetes

Todas as cores do arco-íris aparecem, tonalidades empregadas no tingimento de lãs e das fibras empregadas nas suas confecções e tecelagens.

A indústria dos tapetes mostra novidades no estilo ‘naive’ , seguindo modelo bérbere. A marcheteria, a arte do encaixe perfeito na madeira, apresenta belos arabescos nas gravuras e nas ilustrações das peças. Magníficos exemplares do Alcorão, capas multicoloridas no couro ou no papel, surgem como obras de arte.

_ Usamos o cal, não apenas para beleza das nossas construções , mas porque ele afugenta os mosquitos nas áreas urbanas. – era a resposta do guia às nossas indagações sobre os processos e os materiais empregados nas pinturas.

Com a chegada dos refugiados, vindos de Al-Andaluz , a arte mudejar tem boa acolhida nas terras do Marrocos. As pequenas torretas dos minaretes , as portadas das casas e mesquitas seguem o padrão observado em Sevilha ,em Córdoba e Granada.

O mercado está preparado para atender apenas as necessidades diárias da população local, pouca coisa para o turista comprar.

O principal é observar. Gaiolas de passarinhos dependuradas sobre frutas secas , onde as tâmaras predominam dão moldura adequada as fotos. Para o transporte das mercadorias nas estreitas vias , a única possibilidade fica a cargo de simpáticos burrinhos.

Torrões com amendoim, o nosso mandolate, é petisco apreciado. Para os marroquinos o excesso de açúcar não é pecado, o seu consumo é um dos maiores do mundo. O mel local captura e devolve os sabores do deserto. Queijos de cabra estão em oferta , apenas as condições de higiene deixam dúvidas. As verduras , as frutas , os cítricos mostram que estamos em área fértil , verde e com água abundante. Os gatos são apreciados , ao contrário dos cães; em bandos tomam sol nas praças.

Tetuan possui palácio imperial , onde o atual rei , Mohamed VI,passa pelo menos um mês por ano. Pelo visto ele possui a admiração e o apoio do povo.

No almoço programado para apreciar o cuscus marroquino, pelo roteiro, a dança ritual ao som dos tambores, por dupla masculina de dançarinos, fará a devida saudação. Momento de relaxar.

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