As Residências de Pablo Neruda

As residências de Pablo Neruda.

Além da literatura, dos versos imortais, Pablo Neruda nos lega três casas, hoje museus, onde podemos descobrir e apreciar, analisar e compreender como viveu esta lenda viva do Chile.

Isla Negra foi a primeira, edificada junto ao rochedo negro que recorda a primitiva denominação indígena. Ali será posteriormente enterrado. Placa simples, escura, com poucas letras lembra o local onde ele e La Chascona — sua terceira esposa — recebem o repouso eterno.

A segunda foi construída em Santiago, no bairro Bela Vista, em homenagem a terceira esposa, Matilde Urrutia e tem o nome de La Chascona.

A expressão no Chile, La Chascona, indica mulher de cabeleira grande, personagem, exuberante e com ideias e pensamentos ainda mais conflitantes. Como artista, a personalidade de Matilde Urruti é complicada, mas ela permanecerá ao lado do escritor até a sua morte precoce. Em La Chascona podemos encontrar os livros da sua biblioteca, cópias de manuscritos e os seus pertences pessoais.

La Sebastiana, a terceira, edificada nos altos de Valparaiso, representa a amor e a paixão de Pablo Neruda pela cidade portuária do Chile. Do alto, a baia se abre sem pudor aos olhos do escritor. Valparaiso, como porto, com ruelas estreitas serpenteando rumo aos picos dos cerros, representa a ascensão do homem rumo aos céus. O espaço, exíguo, exige a construção de prédios com mais de três pisos. Sebastiana possui cinco pisos. O escritor ocupará os três últimos. No último pavimento fica a sua mesa de trabalho, dali podia sentir, escutar, as ondas azuis do Oceano Pacífico, intruso que chega, violento ou não, até os seus olhos e pensamentos. Como ele diz:

“Por não terem onde colocá-lo, por grande, desafiante, por fim o colocaram em frente a minha janela.”

O cavalo que admirava nos tempos de criança, em Temuco, após incêndio que arrasou a loja, foi adquirido por ele e transladado a Sebastiana. O sonho de um jovem encontrava o refúgio tão aguardado.

Cada prédio tem significado importante, conectado a cada época da existência do escritor. Circulando lentamente, observando os detalhes, os objetos por ele colecionados e dispostos em posições chaves, podemos entender melhor a alma criadora, os pensamentos, as reflexões e as ideias transformadas em poemas. Poemas que não cansamos de repetir.

Pablo Neruda tinha o hábito de lavar as mãos, antes de iniciar o seu trabalho. Em cada residência sempre havia, pelo menos, dois locais onde ele podia trabalhar. Janelas amplas, abertas para o infinito.

Em Sebastiana, áudios visuais permitem acompanhar a vida de Pablo Neruda, escutar a leitura da sua obra pela própria voz. O timbre, a dicção, são de pessoa simplória, sem o dom da oratória, mas com a capacidade de expressar, de entender a natureza, o mar, a floresta e mesmo o amor.

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