Death Valley. Arizona

O Deserto da Morte no Arizona

Death Valley. O deserto da morte

Localizado entre a Califórnia e o estado de Nevada, é considerado um dos locais mais quentes do planeta. Recorde de 57° C foi constatado em 1913. No meio da tarde, alguns segundos fora do carro, temos fogo nos fundilhos das calças. No solo ou no asfalto pode-se fritar ovos. A temperatura ali é 50% mais elevada do que a do ar.

No caminho para o ouro de São Francisco, em 1849, os colonos, os mineiros e os exploradores, tentando encurtar o caminho, tiveram surpresas desagradáveis ao se perderem pelo vale da morte.

Não existe muito apoio para os excursionistas; é essencial planejar a viagem: água, alimentos e gasolina em quantidade suficiente.

Não encontramos muitas indicações, o emprego do GPS, na escolha da trilha desejada, é fundamental.

O que se deseja ver em área tão inóspita, onde a evaporação bate recordes? No verão, pelo calor, é quase impossível descobrir as belezas ocultas, a indicação dos desastres ocorridos, os vestígios das minas. Mas a diversidade, a alteração dos tons do deserto, com a variação da luz solar, vale os detalhes fantásticos das fotografias.

Podemos acelerar pelas boas estradas sem maiores problemas, não há tráfego.

Poucos carros e até alguns malucos correndo a pé ou de bicicleta. Pelo caminho, algumas cidades fantasmas, restos de minas, com cruzes e sinais de abandono.

Imensas extensões do nada, depósitos infinitos de minerais, de sais, apresentam-se aos curiosos.

As formações rochosas cortadas pela estrada, apresentam variações , desde cores escuras, vermelhas, negras, até o brilhante dourado.

Surgem denominações estranhas: Campo de Golfe do Diabo, BadWatter sinaliza depressão onde lago evaporou por completo há 2.000 anos. Vista do Inferno de Dante aponta para o vazio, para o vermelho do deserto; dá o que pensar.

No meio do nada, surge o nosso alojamento em Stovepipe Wells. A antiga hospedaria, remodelada, apresenta características e decoração do antigo faroeste. O bar, o saloon, o refeitório e a loja de conveniências parecem sair de filmes de bangbang. A canícula da tarde é insuportável, mas as histórias ouvidas permanecem. A piscina convida.

O primeiro poço ali encontrado, sinalizado por chaminé de fogão, razão do nome da localidade, permitiu a construção da primeira estalagem. Para facilitar o acesso, farol rotativo, alimentado por gerador, levava a luz salvadora a distâncias, permitindo aos perdidos no deserto encontrarem repouso e boas refeições. Era a salvação. A tradição continua.

No final da tarde, excursão pelas dunas onde os grãos de areia se movimentam sem sair do lugar. Os ventos não são intensos, a densidade das partículas é elevada, apenas os contornos, os desenhos, são alterados no dia a dia. A sensação de palmilhar as ondulações, moldada pelos ventos fascina. Somos os senhores no momento.

Cercado de montanhas, onde inclusive existem neves eternas, sempre será possível encontrar algum oásis em Death Valley, como em Furnace Creek. Ali, além de piscinas, de palmeiras alinhadas, até campo de golfe para distração dos passantes.

Para circular pelas áreas desertas, sair das estradas convencionais, para acessar detalhes impossíveis de ver do asfalto, são necessários carros especiais, suspensão elevada. O Parque Nacional de Death Valley impõe algumas restrições e cuidados aos desbravadores novatos. Perigos ocultos, surpresas.

Chuvas escassas ocorrem; média de 48 mm de precipitação por ano, mas às vezes nada de água por longos períodos e mesmo por anos. Dependendo da época, da generosidade da estação anterior, o deserto se enche de cores. As flores aparecem: brancas, amarelas, púrpura, vermelha e azul. Nas zonas mais altas, nos picos, a neve é comum, as passagens ficam bloqueadas ao tráfego. Não esqueça as correntes para os pneus.

É preciso cuidado para não ser surpreendido por enxurradas em pleno deserto. Os avisos do perigo surgem no meio de ravinas ressequidas. Junto as dunas, as esparsas algarobeiras e suas sementes alimentam roedores, coelhos e lagartixas. Uma cadeia de vida começa.

No deserto, além das cascavéis, coiotes, raposas circulam. É proibido alimentar os coiotes, os cartazes na beira da estrada são específicos.

Burros, introduzidos pelos mineiros, tornaram-se praga ao longo do tempo. Houve necessidade de caçá-los, de deslocá-los para outros locais, pois estavam depredando o ambiente, reduzindo e espaço vital dos cervos e dos carneiros da montanha — o bighorn sheep. O controle de plantas invasoras é preocupação atual das autoridades do Parque Nacional.

Em poços, em lagos remanescentes, salinidade quatro vezes maior do que nos mares, peixes primitivos sobrevivem em ambiente hostil, com pouca alimentação. Estão em extinção.

No extremo norte, perto de cratera de Ubehebe, o castelo mourisco de Scotty é surpresa pelo inusitado; um castelo em pleno deserto? Quem e o porquê da edificação? Fala-se num escroque e milionário excêntrico.

Zabriskie Point, filmado por Antonini em 1960, é local para contemplar cores pintadas nas encostas, nos morros e vales. Parece paleta de pintores, onde todas as cores, tonalidades exuberantes, estão misturadas. O calor do meio dia é sufocante. Minha esposa usa sombrinha com proteção específica para UV. Os americanos elogiam a ideia e perguntam onde comprar.

Com razão, tribos primitivas, os Timbisha Shoshones, chamavam Death Valley, na linguagem local, de terra do chão em brasas.

Formação geológica, produzida, modificada ao longo de milhões de anos, é o que se pode constatar ao longo das trilhas e caminhos. Ao amanhecer, nas primeiras luzes do dia e no fim da tarde é o melhor momento de degustar, de apreciar, a tonalidade das rochas, dos vales e dos canyons. O contraste é superior, as fotos ganham mais vida.

A exploração das minas, da prata e do ouro, nunca produziu grandes riquezas, apenas cidades fantasmas e túneis perigosos ao visitar. Cuidado com os gases venenosos, com os desmoronamentos e com as cascavéis escondidas do sol abrasador.

A exploração do bórax, material usado na fabricação de vidro especial, foi uma das poucas atividades que prosperou. Exigia o transporte até Mojave , 160 milhas ao sul, com o emprego de imensas carroças puxadas por equipe de 20 mulas. Os equipamentos usados, hoje, são monumentos ao longo das rotas.

Locais inóspitos precisam ser garimpados. Formações rochosas, desfiladeiros de arenito e de pedra, canyons, vales, gargantas, salares brancos na imensidão e entre dunas. As cores abrangem todos os matizes. Confundem. Deslumbram.

Na época do gelo, 20.000 anos no passado, os lagos existentes e suas ondas modularam as margens, escavando terraços nas rochas próximas. Com a evaporação restaram apenas camadas de sais minerais depositados; extensões imensas, cristais brancos cobrindo tudo. No meio da tarde surgem miragens para enganar e confundir o viajante.

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