Encantos do Novo México.Pueblo de Taos

Pueblos de Taos

Pueblos de Taos. Encanto no Novo México

No Novo México, local do encontro de várias culturas, de sangue, de lutas pela posse da terra, de lendas e de muitas tradições, há mais de 1.000 anos, populações nativas vindas da região de Mesa Verde, altiplano entre Arizona e Colorado, escolheram Taos e arredores como a novo lar.

Abandonavam as pequenas povoações, construídas com pedras e barro nos aclives e cavernas das montanhas; lançavam novas raízes junto aos afluentes e as gargantas do Rio Grande. Surgem os pueblos do norte, do Novo México.

Hábitos, costumes, a maneira de vida daqueles povos primitivos podem agora serem observados nos pueblos visitados.

Antigos ritos, festas, atos religiosos, os gritos e preces dos sacerdotes e feiticeiros, ao som dos tambores rituais ainda são presentes do passado. Três grupos predominam: os Keres, os Tewa e os Tiwa.

Rádios locais transmitem programas numa linguagem incompreensível ao forasteiro.

Os espanhóis, seguindo o Caminho do Rio, vindos do México, a partir de 1540, trazem a flâmula de Castela e a Cruz Salvadora de Cristo. Em 1609-1610, fundam a cidade de Santa Fé; as igrejas de adobe começam a pontilhar a trilha.

Em 1680, Ohkay Owingell, chefe e curandeiro, encabeça vitoriosa rebelião. Padres Franciscanos são massacrados, igrejas queimadas, o inimigo é expulso. Única rebelião vitoriosa em toda a América; só em 1692, as forças espanholas reconquistam as terras do Rio Grande. Surge a devoção da Virgem da Reconquista, cuja imagem é reverenciada até hoje na Catedral de Santa Fé.

Raízes hispânicas são transplantadas, os ecos ainda estão presentes no dia a dia de todos.

Em 1846, o território é anexado aos Estados Unidos. A aceitação não é pacífica. Nova revolta, o governador é morto. O exército americano após batalhas sangrentas ocupa Taos e a região. Os líderes da rebelião são enforcados na praça central de Taos. O pueblo de Taos, a velha igreja, tudo é arrasado. Novo governo assume o poder político. O Novo México é território sob a bandeira dos Estados Unidos.

Outra civilização predomina, os trilhos das ferrovias, as linhas do Cavalo de Ferro são ampliadas. Colonos da costa leste chegam aos borbotões. Outros missionários, novas versões da bíblia, alcançam as antigas populações. O caldeamento de costumes continua até hoje.

Os pueblos, todos, mantêm a sua igreja de adobe, onde os ritos são expressos em espanhol ou misturados ao inglês. Em todos os locais públicos, os dizeres estão nas duas grafias. O “espaninglisch” é realidade.

A chegada de pintores, de intelectuais, a partir do fim do século XIX, acrescenta temperos à cultura local: Ernest Blumenschein, Geórgia O’Keefer, Aldous Huxley, Carl Jung, Thomas Wolfe. D.H. Lawrwnce autor polêmico de “O Amante de Lady Chartteley”.

A região de Taos favorece o desenvolvimento das artes. O governador do território entre 1878 e 1781 enquanto procurava prender o famoso ladrão de trens, o “Billy the Kid”, tem tempo para escrever o famoso romance “Ben Hur”.

O resultado é uma infinidade de lojas de artigos finos, ateliês de artistas, galerias de arte e museus. O Novo México é considerado o terceiro mercado de arte dos Estados Unidos.

Em Pueblos de Taos, sob a administração indígena, reserva exclusiva, o antigo vilarejo foi reconstruído e está sendo restaurado. Nas casas antigas, construídas, decoradas, mobiliadas a moda antiga, os artesões executam, com técnica e ferramenta dos seus ancestrais, verdadeiras obras de arte.

Os prédios, construídos com técnica conforme padrões milenares, no seu interior e exterior, são cópias idênticas a modelo centenário.

A nova igreja de Pueblos de Taos é exemplo típico das Igrejas de Adobe.

Circulando entre Ranchos de Taos, Española, San Juan, Chimayó, Nambé, Pojoaque, Cochito e Tesuque, encontramos, além das “haciendas” do século XVIII, das aldeias de barro, novas vilas e cidades modernas onde a cor do tijolo e o padrão de arquitetura de adobe possuem exclusividade.A legislação não permite fugir da padronização. Pode-se utilizar materiais e processos modernos, mas o visual é padrão.

Dos 19 grupos de índios existentes nos Estados Unidos, oito vivem no Novo México. Foi o que gravei!

Kit Carson, herói do faroeste, é personagem e heroi de Taos. Lutou contra apaches e navajos. Sua casa é museu. Foi responsável pela condução dos guerreiros navajos para uma nova reserva. A marcha de mais de 450 km matou grande parte dos vencidos.

A casa de Geórgia O’keefe, pintora, em Abiquir é um dos museus a visitar.

Como as montanhas estão perto, áreas para esportes de inverno apresentam fácil acesso.

Mas, no caso não dá para fugir das lojas, das galerias de arte, das exposições e do folclore da cidade de Taos e seus arredores. A arquitetura do adobe nos fascina.

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