La Rioja. Vinhos de Altura

La Rioja

Produtora de vinhos de altura, o Pinot Noir e a Syrah, são as estrelas a nos tentar. Entre 1.000 e 1.400 metros os vinhedos acompanham as curvas das montanhas; espremidos entre as rochas e as estradas elevam-se aos poucos. A subida gradual, lenta, é interrompida quando se aproxima mais uma curva, outra bodega está preparada para receber outro intruso: Lomas Blanca, Los Navarro, Casa Índia, Doña Emilia, são os cartazes que aparecem pela “ruta” amiga.

A cidade, pequena, antiga, com igrejas e prédios coloniais, respeita com rigor o horário da “siesta”. O calor, sempre intenso, interrompe as atividades pelas 13:00 horas. Só após as 17:30 ou mesmo 18:00 horas as lojas, os negócios reabrem suas portas.

Horário sagrado, ninguém circula pelas ruas. Apenas turistas desavisados, alguns curiosos burlam a lei. Até os parquímetros da cidade param.

Durante a “siesta” não há obrigações de pagamento, o estacionamento é livre.

Cidade de caudilhos, os nomes de Facundo Quiroga e de El Chacho Peñaloze ressurgem nas lendas, nas narrativas e nos livros. Vale a pena perguntar.

Por matar um puma quando jovem, o caudilho era conhecido como o Tigre de Salta. Facundo lutou contra o centralismo unitário de Buenos Aires. Apoiador da Confederação Argentina, tentou a separação contra o domínio de Rosas nas Províncias de Buenos Aires. Morto numa emboscada, a tradição diz que ele foi enterrado de pé. Sua bandeira negra, nos combates, estampavam o lema: “Religión o Muerte “.Alguns comentários, não confirmados, dizem que uma aliança com Império do Brasil poderia resultar na Independência das províncias de Salta. Boatos?

Vinhos estranhos, desconhecidos, frutas cristalizadas, nozes, doces, geleias são atrativos de La Rioja..

Antes das 20: 30 horas não há nada para comer. O passante que chegar desprevenido não consegue o seu jantar. Nessa hora, o fogo está extinto, os cozinheiros, os atendentes, ainda estão longe. Hora de jejum, de abstinência, ou de sanduíches improvisados. Não há remédio, os jantares só bem mais tarde.

Em 1835, numas das peleias locais surge a lenda da Defunta Correa. A esposa de soldado recrutado à força, com pouca saúde, sai no encalço da tropa. Filho ao peito, infante de poucos dias, não sobrevive à queda num desfiladeiro. Morta, vários dias após é encontrada. Seu filho, como milagre, ainda vivo, mama em peito murcho, seios frios, congelados.

A narrativa circula entre almas crédulas, uma santa popular emerge como lenda, algo impossível de destruir. Nos momentos da aflição, do desespero, seu nome ainda é evocado, como a solução. A fé é o essencial os donativos, as garrafas com água, não poderão faltar nos oratórios que encontramos pelas estradas remotas do norte da Argentina. Outra garrafa, pouca água, é deixada para trás; simples recordação de turista em busca de aventuras e de histórias para escrever.

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