Los Cabos na Baixa California. Covil de Piratas

Los Cabos na Baixa Califórnia. Covil de Piratas

A partir do início do século XXI, outro boom turístico começa no México. A baixa Califórnia é o novo destino. Cabo de São Lucas e San José de Los Cabos os novos faróis.

Barco é ferramenta essencial para o reconhecimento. No caso, um colosso de 110.000 toneladas é a minha referência.

Depressão ocorrida do solo, milhões de anos, seguindo a fenda de San André, pela invasão das águas do Oceano Pacífico provocou a criação do Mar de Cortés. Surge a Baixa Califórnia: espaço de desertos, onde empreendimentos imobiliários, resortes, campos de golfe, hotéis de luxos e casa de milhões de dólares surgem de modo acelerado. Nova Riviera Mexicana?

Local de migração de baleias: azuis, pilotos, corcundas e francas, cetáceos vindos do ártico, agora hospeda aposentados, turistas americanos e canadenses.

O contraste entre as águas geladas do Pacífico, repletas de peixes e as águas cálidas do Mar de Cortes aporta o diferencial que encanta o recém-chegado. Paraíso dos esportes aquáticos, da pesca desportiva, do mergulho, da aventura azul, dos passeios pelo deserto, existe muito para o bservar e degustar. Será preciso retornar?

No sul da península, a Praia do Divórcio tem as areias banhadas pelos dois mares. Algo distinto, diferente.

O uso de um 4X4 é condição essencial para percorrer os mais de 1.500 quilômetros dede Los Cabos até Tijuana e São Diego na fronteira com os Estados Unidos. Safáris são tentações pelo caminho.

As formações calcárias do “Arco” surgem com as primeiras luzes do dia. Rendilhado de rochas esculpidas pelo mar e pelo vento. É o símbolo de Los Cabos, o novo paraíso construído pelos homens nas terras da Califórnia Mexicana.

No início da colonização espanhola, o local atraia piratas de todo o mundo; aqui além de refúgio, tinham a oportunidade de descansar após as provações exigidas para ultrapassar o Cabo Horn, o Estreito de Magalhães e mesmo pelas lutas enfrentadas durante as excursões às cidades espanholas da costa do Pacífico. Foram os primeiros turistas.

O comércio com o extremo oriente, a chegada do Galeão de Manila e da Nau da China, com seus tesouros em especiarias, marfim, seda, pérolas e laca até o porto de Acapulco, atraia holandeses e ingleses.

Francis Drake e Thomas Cavendish foram os “primeiros da época”. Estamos em 1579 e 1587.

No porto de Los Cabos, réplicas de navios de piratas simulam os antigos combates. Podemos imaginar os ataques fulminantes, espada na mão, pistola noutra, usando primitivas granadas, as abordagens, a artilharia naval, a busca incessante pelas riquezas destinadas ao Rei de Espanha.

A prata, extraída do México e outras colônias espanholas, tendo cotação na China e Filipinas bem maior do que na Europa, era a moeda de troca utilizada. O câmbio favorável manteve o comércio por mais de 250 anos, até Napoleão, com suas guerras, provocar a destruição da frota espanhola. O ciclo de comércio se extingue, começa a decadência das colônias. A independência, a fragmentação dos antigos domínios é o resultado.

No século XVII e XVIII chegam novos audaciosos: os desbravadores missionários. Começa a catequização dos índios. As igrejinhas típicas de adobe podem ser ainda vistas em São Lucas. São recordações.

Doenças trazidas pelos europeus ,alienígenas ,provocaram a dizimação das populações indígenas, o deserto ficará mais vazio. Só a exploração das minas de prata de Santa Cruz, entre 1850 e 1890, trará novas expectativas.

Agora o turismo é a esperança da região.

Somente o advento das primeiras estradas, da construção de adutoras, possibilitou a implantação de moderno complexo turístico. Arquitetura de vanguarda; os condomínios, os centros comerciais, as marinas explodem em cores e quantidades. O sol permanente, a areia clara, a perspectiva de encontrar tesouros e a vida no mar são desafios. Os jovens têm novas fronteiras, os velhos têm o repouso garantido para os olhos e para a alma.

daiello@cpovo.net

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