Monumental Valley.. Santu[ario Navajo no Arizona

Monumental Valley

Monumental Valley. Santuário Navajo no Arizona

Kayenta, Arizona, pequena localidade centrada na reserva, será o nosso ponto de apoio. Interessante circular, nos Estados Unidos, entre pessoas com características tão diferentes. Os navajos representam o maior contingente entre as dezenas de tribos americanas. São mais de 110.000. Por duas vezes havíamos tentado chegar a Monumental Valley, mas nas oportunidades anteriores as distâncias venceram.

Agora, planejamento perfeito, não havia como não chegar. O hotel fora reservado, pago há meses. Nenhum detalhe deixado ao acaso.

Partimos de Las Vegas, pela I-15, passando por Utah e seus parques nacionais, como Zion e Bryce Park, depois em Page, vimos o rio Colorado aprisionado por represa. O Lago Powell surge no deserto, bem como a possibilidade do passeio de lanchas, dos esportes náuticos e até casas barco como hospedagem. Utah é o estado americano com o maior número de desertos e de parques nacionais. Bastava olhar para um dos lados da estrada. No caminho, vale citar a discussão com o GPS. As ordens eram de dobrar a direita, para depois retornar. Estávamos em rota errada. Só após alguns retornos inúteis, e discussões com a copiloto, percebi que o trajeto determinado pelo GPS, mais curto e adequado, não coincidia com o roteiro pitoresco, mais turístico, mais extenso, o planejado e traçado meses atrás, ainda no Brasil.

Povo guerreiro, os navajos possuem cultura e tradição interessante. O culto aos espíritos, a existência de centros religiosos, as cerimônias no alto das montanhas e penhascos. O orgulho, o respeito aos ancestrais.

Monumental Valley ficou conhecido pelas formações de cor vermelha, que pontilham as ausências no deserto. São montes, plataformas, agulhas, picos com formas estranhas. Cores alteradas com as horas do dia e a influência da luz solar.

Hoje é um dos locais mais fotografados e filmados dos Estados Unidos e do Mundo. Propagandas espalhadas pelo globo trazem flashes das belezas do Vale Monumental.

John Ford, ao filmar “Nos tempos das Diligências” — Stage Coach —, inicia uma série de nove filmes — John Wayne era assíduo protagonista do local.

A zona é deserta, mas as estradas são excelentes. Correr de um lado para outro, sair da estrada principal, entrar por ravinas, procurar canyons camuflados, cruzar riachos secos, pouca água, verde ausente; uma poeira permanente, vermelha, sufocando pulmões é a decoração da cena.

Mas a imponência, o silêncio das testemunhas, o ruído do vento, o frio da tarde permanecem.

As imagens, as fotos, para sempre: Merrick Butte, John Ford’s Point, Artist’s Point, The Thumb, Camel Butte, Three Sisters,…

No final da tarde recordei o filme “O código do silêncio”. Na 2ª Guerra Mundial, a linguagem navajo, compreensível apenas para eles, foi utilizada como código nas lutas do Pacífico Sul. Palavras novas como: tanques, artilharia, navio, bombardeio, apoio tático, foram introduzidas no dialeto. Os japoneses enlouqueceram. Como não havia necessidade de decodificar a mensagens, as informações transmitidas ou recebidas eram postas em ação sem perda de minutos importantes; havia uma comunicação criptografada on-line, algo impossível para a época.

Ouvindo programas das rádios locais, percebemos as dificuldades da inteligência japonesa. Missão impossível. Aliás, a escrita é mais difícil de entender. Basta ver os cartazes e os sinais na língua dos navajos, elas davam as boas vindas.

.

“Yishááh”

Felipe Daiello

Autor de “Palavras ao Vento e As Rodas da Fortuna ”.

Editora AGE

daiello@cpovo.net

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