Nicarágua. País de eternos conflitos

Nicarágua. País de Eternos Conflitos

A costa enrugada, montanhas áridas despencando para as ondas, acantilados afiados, penhascos e rochedos sugerem o perfil de conflitos. Pelo lado do oceano Pacífico, dois portos aguardam os poucos navios de cruzeiros marítimos: Corinto e San Juan del Sur — o nosso atual destino.

Desde a conquista espanhola, famílias poderosas sempre disputaram o poder político. Querelas entre as oligarquias das cidades de Leon e de Granada antecederam à escolha do local da nova capital. Como conciliação, numa posição intermediária, Manágua foi a cidade escolhida.

O porto de San Juan del Sur, minúsculo, mas acolhedor é base de navios pesqueiros. A cidade é pequena, construções simples, infraestrutura precária. As praias têm areias escuras, aspecto desagradável.

Nosso roteiro: circular pela estrada pan-americana, descobrir os encantos das antigas cidades fundadas pelos espanhóis, verificar os detalhes de arquitetura colonial dos séculos XVI, XVII e XVIII.

A rodovia está em bom estado, a vigilância policial é constante. Notícias de assaltos e de sequestros afugentam os turistas. Nosso motorista recebe instruções para cuidar e bem dos estrangeiros. O militar é insistente no aviso: ”Cuide dos gringos. ”

Os povoados são pobres, as casas miseráveis, o gado escasso e magro. As plantações de frutas — mangas, melões, sandias e papaia — não são suficientes para gerar renda. É dura a vida dos campesinos. Passamos por Riva, depois por Mainara com seu mercado de artesanato. A paisagem, bela na essência, revela pobrezas. A população rural é amistosa.

No alto de uma colina, numa explosão de flores, surge o vilarejo de Catarina com suas rústicas casas de barro e telhado de zinco. Nas ruas uma procissão reverencia o Senhor Crucificado . É Sexta-feira Santa.

Visto do alto, da montanha, o lago de Ajuda surge; ocupa a cratera de antigo vulcão. Mais de 150 em toda a Nicarágua. Pelo menos dez são ativos. O vilão de todos é o Mainara, por sinal o nosso destino de agora. A subida é difícil, o campo de lavas cobre a paisagem. Monstro sempre ativo. No momento, sonolento, parece dormir. Sobe-se até a cratera. Impressionante a visão, a profundidade das câmaras de expansão, as colinas internas formatadas por rochas vulcânicas, depressões estranhas, ângulos profundos, não escondem as fumarolas presentes. Minutos é o tempo máximo permitido para permanecer no local. Intoxicação pelos gases é certeza. Nos últimos anos ele sempre tem surpresas escondidas para todos. Anos atrás lançou uma nuvem de pedras incandescentes, afugentando os turistas presentes. Do ponto alto, junto a Cruz de Bobadilla, a visão dos estragos feitos pelo Mainara ao longo dos anos impressiona.

Junto ao lago Manágua, o perfil dos vulcões Concepcion e Maderas surge no horizonte. O Mombacho só é acessível com o emprego de utilitários 4X4. Horas de escalada, difícil, impossível no momento.

Finalmente Granada, a pérola procurada. Os detalhes: balcões, portas trabalhadas, gradis. Prédios restaurados. A Catedral em amarelo impecável, o mosteiros de São Jerônimo. A cidade é agradável. As igrejas são simples, sem a pompa, sem o ouro e a prata das congêneres peruanas e bolivianas. Outra procissão. É Sexta-feira Santa. O ritmo das preces, dos tambores, da bandinha emociona. O balé dos passos fascina. Os andores oscilam

Em 1850, a Nicarágua com seus lagos era a alternativa para ligar dois oceanos. No entanto, a abertura pelo Istmo do Panamá foi a solução de engenharia adotada. Revés que custou caro a esquecida Nicarágua.

Com o assassinato do líder oposicionista Augusto Sandino, o coronel Somoza assume o comando da nação em 1934. Anos pesados, o país é loteado entre familiares. Em 1979, a Frente Sandinista de Libertação Nacional inicia a revolução. Durante 20 anos, mais destruição e morte. Os contras, apoiados pelo Governo Reagan, mantêm a reação. Os helicópteros soviéticos fazem a diferença nos combates. Apenas em 1999, com a eleição de Violeta Chamorro, a Nicarágua respira paz. Surge uma débil democracia. Prédios destruídos, hospitais devastados, podem ainda serem observados. Não houve tempo e dinheiro para as recuperações.

Além do fator humano, terremotos, erupções, furações, ajudam na devastação.

Como resultado a emigração da população é uma constante. Na Costa Rica, os ilegais representam problema e conflitos insolúveis. As estatísticas falam em quase um milhão de refugiados, a maioria irregular

Não há mais tempo, preciso retornar; a capital Manágua ficará para outra oportunidade. Apenas vinte quilômetros. Mas não quero perder o navio

Naquele feriado, toda a população estava próxima dos lagos e praias do Oceano Pacífico. Corpos escuros, baixa estatura, trazem no corpo o sangue das primitivas populações. Não possuem o hábito de utilizar calções de banho e maiôs. Enfrentam o calor do verão usando roupas comuns de trabalho. Precisam esquecer o desemprego e a falta de oportunidades.

Vendo os antigos e novos grafites, FSLN é marca indelével, os monumentos dedicados as guerrilhas, entende-se como o antigo comandante, Daniel Ortega, seja o atual Presidente. Os arautos da Revolução Bolivariana já estão a caminho. O polêmico Presidente Eterno da Venezuela prometeu apoio financeiro e o fornecimento de petróleo subsidiado. O futuro é incerto.

Na despedida, a medida que o navio se afasta, fica a certeza ou serão incertezas o que vemos no ar.

Os Sandinistas retomarão,de novo, o poder totalitário? A China, substituindo a Rússia, será a nova parceira? Por quanto tempo os conflitos vão aguardar até a próxima revolução?

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