O Coração ficou em São Francisco

Três dias de céu azul, nenhuma nuvem, a baía de São Francisco mostrava os seus encantos ao invasor. Só a tardinha, o eterno nevoeiro, vindo do mar, ciumento, tentaria esconder seus tesouros. Uma cortina branca, espessa era tentativa de encerrar o espetáculo.

Os primeiros navegantes espanhóis a explorar a costa do Pacífico Norte, não perceberam a entrada para este ancoradouro perfeito. O eterno vigilante camuflava a passagem; não era ainda o momento da revelação.

Agora, em navio de luxo, observador privilegiado tinha tudo livre, desimpedido, sem restrições. Temperatura agradável; era obrigação aproveitar o descuido, havia tanto a ver e mais ainda para relatar. Sempre existem cabeças curiosas.

Cidade de clima inconstante, perverso. Para o escritor Mark Twain, foi o local, onde em pleno verão, passou o pior inverno da sua vida. Ele estava desempregado e vivia nas ruas.

Frisco ,para os íntimos,é cidade que surge alegre, agradável aos olhos. Prédios históricos restaurados, jardins, espaços verdes e flores por todos os cantos. As colunas de concreto sobem preguiçosas para alturas agradáveis. Prédios modernos, arquitetura de vanguarda, nada de grafite, apenas detalhes, beleza pura, nunca esquecida. Tem vida noturna intensa como poucas nos Estados U nidos; restaurantes e cafés estão lotados neste final de semana.

É preciso circular pelo contorno da baía de São Francisco para colher a melhor impressão.

A ponte “Golden Gate”, pintada em vermelho, é a apresentadora. Encontramos ali fortificações construídas após o ataque japonês a Pearl Habour. Parques e jardins abraçam os dois promontórios. Cuidado para não atropelar os coiotes, eventuais turistas pela região. Monumento aos marinheiros mostra a direção para Sausalito, cidade de barcos residências, local de artistas, de artesões,escritores e intelectuais .

Para o norte, perto de Pont Reyes, podemos visitar pequena reserva florestal, onde se encontram remanescentes de árvores gigantes: redwoods e sequoias aparecem em Muir Woods.

No centro da baía, agora apenas mais um museu, a ilha de Alcatraz e a saga de Al Capone, o terror de Chicago dos anos 20 e 30 ,podem ser investigadas.

Fischerman’s Wharf e o píer 39, com lojas, com restaurantes, aquários e barcos antigos é o local preferido dos turistas. O ensopado de caranguejo, o salmão defumado e o pão especial, formato de bichos, da Boudin Bakery — padaria de 1850 —, são necessidades para a fome que breve há de chegar. Cuidado! As compras não devem desviar os olhares e nem os bolsos esvaziar.

A Torre Coin com seus murais, obra de alunos de Rivera, surge junto as colinas do Telegraf Hill. O Fort Mason, com ancoradouros e passeios está logo ali.

Podemos ver os cable-car — bondes elétricos — carregando novatos, curiosos turistas cheios de máquinas de fotografar. Agora subindo, bem lentos, as empinadas colinas de São Francisco.

O perfil de pirâmide do edifício Prudential marca a zona central. É ponto de referência. Não podemos nos perder.

Mais no fundo, a Bay Bridge, dois andares de vias, mostra a direção para a Universidade de Berkeley. Não se esqueça que a cidade depois do terremoto de 1906, abrigou mentes distintas, palavras de liberdade e de tolerância. Bandeiras multicoloridas aqui têm presença constante, são toleradas. A característica da cidade, a sua alma, está associada a essas memórias.

No Parque do Presídio, bicicletas e pés descansados são bem-vindos. Eu preferi, com os seus 140 cavalos, o meu Crysler-Advance.

Seguindo pela costa, rumo ao sul, pela famosa estrada 101, encontramos antigos moinhos. A costa está repleta de escarpas, de rochedos acantilados e de ondas teimosas — que tentam há anos alterar o perfil da costa.. São persistentes.

Espiando para longe, do alto do barco, pode-se visualizar, talvez, com dificuldade o fluxo de carros; zigues-zagues contínuos pelos contornos da Lombard Street, a rua mais sinuosa da cidade. Não esqueça que, no filme “Bullit”, as ruas e encostas de São Francisco ganharam as lentes dos cinemas de todo o mundo. É agradável, como o ator fazia com mais perícia e audácia, o subir e o descer das ladeiras. Não canso de subir e descer, aliás, é melhor cair, despencar em direção as águas geladas, mas azuis da baía de São Francisco.

Veleiros e barcos de turismo cruzam as distâncias, pontos móveis por tudo. Tiburon, logo ali, indica outras possibilidades. As extensões infinitas, apenas estimulam a aventura, mas exigem cuidados e melhor preparo físico. Ainda bem que a noite terá vinhos de Sonoma e de Napa para degustar. O salmão defumado será o fiel companheiro. Nada melhor para terminar a jornada.

Vamos brindar São Francisc , agradecendo, a acolhida..

Felipe Daiello.

Autor de “Palavras ao Vento”.

Editora AGE

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Felipe Daiello
Autor de “Palavras ao Vento”
Editora AGE

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