Pachacámac,Filho do Sol.Santuário no Perú

Pachacámac.Oráculo e Senhor do Fogo

Pachacámac. Santuário de antigas civilizações

Estamos ancorados no porto de Callao, agora outro bairro ligado a Lima — capital do Peru. Para contrariar colegas, o nosso objetivo é Pachacámac, hora e meia de estrada para o sul.

Junto a costa, em áreas desérticas, as escavações junto ao antigo complexo arqueológico exigem atenção. O que nos aguarda? O destino valerá a pena?

Populações antigas, antes do nascimento de Cristo, desenvolveram na região a cultura da Costa do Pacífico. A sobrevivência dependia das plantações desenvolvidas nos vales próximos, a água era transportada das montanhas por canais de irrigação. Próximo ao Vale de Lurin podemos comprovar os métodos empregados.

O santuário foi estabelecido pela cultura Lima em 200 a. C. A técnica do “adobito” — pequenos tijolos de barro — foi usada para construir as edificações, os muros, as passarelas, as rampas e as pirâmides para a adoração. Pachacámac era centro espiritual, local de peregrinação. Não era sítio de ocupação populacional.

Trazendo oferendas, vindos de longe, era exigido período de jejum e purificação antes dos peregrinos adentrarem no recinto sagrado.

Pachacámac, Deus violento, filho do Sol, senhor dos terremotos, com um piscar de olhos podia fazer a terra tremer.

Exigia presentes para manter a paz e, através dos seus arautos, retribuir com augúrios adequados. Fazia previsões sobre colheitas, sobre a vida.

As pirâmides de barro, algumas alcançavam 30 metros, apresentavam decoração colorida. Através de rampas os sacerdotes, os soberanos, usando liteiras, eram carregados até o topo. O povo ficava distante, aguardava novas e boas informações.

Com o desenvolvimento da região, o poder político passou para os Vart, depois para os Ichma e no final para os Incas. Pachacámac nunca perdeu sua relevância. O local continua sagrado para todos.

Com a supremacia inca, Pachacámac é ligada por estradas a todo o império. Utilizando blocos de pedra, a tecnologia construtiva Inca é agregada. O sol é símbolo religioso introduzido. A grande Pirâmide do Sol alcança 60 metros de altura. Do alto da estrutura, pedra sólida, tem-se uma vista adequada da região e das ondas do Pacífico. Prédio, agora restaurado, é o local de alojamento das jovens escolhidas; crianças eram educadas não apenas para serem sacerdotisas, as filhas do deus Sol, mas também para serem concubinas reais. Privilegiadas, tinham obrigações rígidas a cumprir, as transgressões eram punidas com a morte.

As construções do período inca estão bem conservadas, a rocha é permanente, o tijolo de adobe se esfacela com o tempo. É complicada a restauração de vetustos muros, templos e construções.

O recinto cerimonial de Pachacámac servia também como centro de acumulação, de transmissão de cultura e de informações. Através dos ritos, das procissões, a população recebia força espiritual do além, forjando relações e alianças entre os membros da comunidade. Era o oráculo procurado para prever o futuro.

Desde os primórdios, sacerdotes, xamãs, escolhidos e treinados desde jovens, eram preparados para identificar os sintomas das doenças humanas.

O uso dos tumis — faca ritual côncava — capaz de extirpar as dores, a escolha das ervas adequadas, a posição das estrelas, as condições futuras do clima, a época adequada para plantar e colher, eram necessidades pedidas pela população que a Pachacámac acorria.

No museu anexo, peças encontradas nas escavações permitem admirar e conhecer as atividades, a maneira de viver, o artesanato, das pessoas que passaram pela região. A imagem de Pachacámac, dupla face, o seu centro de poder atrai a atenção. Ponto alto da exposição.

Outra pergunta surgiu de improviso. Sangue humano seria exigido nos sacrifícios? As suposições eram distintas entre os pesquisadores.

Recentes escavações trouxeram a tona sepultura de jovens mulheres. A maioria morta por estrangulamento. Apenas mulheres. Em situação de secas severas, não seria indispensável oferecer algo mais para apaziguar a cólera dos Deuses Poderosos?

Outros afirmam ser este o castigo destinado as jovens, as escolhidas, por terem traído o Deus Sol. Seus noivos, amantes, sofriam pior punição. Onde estará a verdade?

A coleção de quipus é interessante, fios tecidos com pontos, cores e pregas, eram usados pelos povos pré-hispânicos para controle administrativo de colheitas, pessoas e finanças. É código inca de difícil compreensão.

Os espanhóis quando aqui chegaram, em 1536, em busca de tesouros, destruíram quase tudo. Necessário violar templos, pirâmides e sepulturas.

Como peculiaridade, um cachorro, aparência de sarnento, circulava pelas redondezas. Aspecto horrível, doentio até, no entanto, conforme explicou o guia era exemplo típico do dito cão peruano. Como possui temperatura corporal acima da média é usado como apoio médico. Pelo contato, o seu calor pode minorar algumas doenças. Só se for de olhos fechados.

Depois, pela capital Lima, se possível, faça uma circulada breve para rever as preciosidades deixadas pelos espanhóis na Capital dos Deuses: A Praça das Armas, o Palácio do Governo — com a troca da guarda presidencial —, a Catedral, o Palácio do Arcebispo, a Casa da Inquisição, o Mosteiro de São Francisco, as casas antigas com balcões e varandas em madeira trabalhada; as imensas e pesadas portas dos casarões. A seguir o museu do ouro, a coleção particular de Larco Herrera, o bairro elegante de Miraflores, os shoppings modernos, a visão do Oceano Pacífico com ondas especiais para o surfe, local de bons restaurantes.

Não chove em Lima, não há necessidade de telhados. As lajes das residências e prédios são empilhadas uma sobre as outras. Uma poeira fina cobre a cidade e esconde a tarde que vai se despedindo.

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