Pernambuco. Ilha das Paixões

Época da Semana Santa, tempo de concretizar um sonho. Assistir em Pernambuco às cerimônias religiosas, às encenações em Gravatá e, no Marco Zero, em Recife, às procissões do Senhor Morto.

A cerimônia medieval da bênção do fogo no Sábado de Aleluia em Olinda. Os cantos gregorianos e as vigílias em antigas igrejas. Vetustas recordações de um passado rico em tradições, a Ressurreição de Cristo. No entanto, o clímax está reservado, a um local desolado do agreste, num planalto com topografia rochosa, região de grande energia, onde o homem para e pensa.

Próxima de Caruaru, região de feiras, de uma festa de forró que dura 30 dias, onde floresce a arte de Mestre Vitalino, que deu cores, formas e fama ao barro da região, encontramos Nova Jerusalém.

Cidade teatro, com 100 mil m² de área, 9 palcos, totalmente murada, reproduz Jerusalém no ano 33 d.C. Nela se desenvolve um espetáculo fantástico, pelas dimensões, pela atuação de 500 atores e figurantes, no maior teatro ao ar livre do mundo. A encenação da Paixão de Cristo encanta e comove a todos. É recuar 2.000 anos no tempo e assistir ao vivo ao Drama do nosso Mestre. Não há como não chorar e lembrar ensinamentos que a dura vida cotidiana nos faz esquecer.

Uma lua cheia fantástica ilumina todo o palco, recompensando os peregrinos vindos de tão longe. Estamos na época do inverno, tempo das chuvas. O agreste está todo verde e, como diz o sertanejo, com a chuva tudo se torna doce: as frutas, o leite e o próprio povo.

O destino a seguir nos levou ao Recife antigo. Restaurações em andamento o transformarão, como o Pelourinho, num dos símbolos do Brasil.

Na antiga Rua dos Judeus (1536-1654), atual Rua do Bom Jesus, destaca-se a restauração da primeira sinagoga construída no Brasil e nas Américas. Kahal Zur Israel apresenta uma retrospectiva da atuação dos Marranos desde a descoberta, no tempo da Inquisição em Portugal e Espanha, do Domínio Holandês e da Reconquista Portuguesa.

Vimos, através de painéis, o efeito e atuação dos Cristãos Novos na indústria, nos engenhos de açúcar, no comércio de exportação e importação, e a sua influência no desenvolvimento da colônia, com a fundação de escolas e hospitais.

Aqui eles encontraram um paraíso, pois, distantes da Coroa Portuguesa, tinham mais liberdade. Estavam longe das garras da Inquisição, muito mais branda em Portugal do que na fanática Espanha. Na época da colonização holandesa, com Nassau, chega-se ao auge da sua atuação. Seiscentas famílias viviam em Recife, reunidas em duas congregações, onde se destaca a figura do Rabino Isaac Aboab da Fonseca, que mais tarde fundará em Amsterdã a Sinagoga Portuguesa, que hoje ainda deve e pode ser visitada.

Na reconstrução do prédio, patrocinada pelo Banco Safra e pela Fundação Roberto Marinho, podem-se verificar detalhes das fundações, dos pavimentos das ruas na época, dos aspectos construtivos dos muros, dos revestimentos empregados, dos artefatos do dia a dia.

Com suas ilhas, pontes e canais, Recife lembrava Amsterdã, razão pela qual os holandeses destruíram Olinda, deslocando sua população para o novo local. Aqui se sentiam como em casa. A reconquista termina com o sonho. Ocorre a dispersão dos judeus, uns indo para Nova Amsterdã, atual Nova Iorque, outros retornando à Europa e alguns fugindo para o sertão.

Entre as visitas às igrejas, não tínhamos como fugir do litoral, pois Pernambuco se destaca também pelas suas praias, recifes e mangues. Na maré baixa aparecem as piscinas naturais e os aquários, onde peixes multicoloridos, aprisionados, podem ser observados por quem se desloca a pé sobre os arrecifes.

Em Itamaracá, o projeto Peixe-Boi nos permite apreciar esse gentil mamífero aquático em perigo de extinção. Ao sul de Porto de Galinhas, o projeto Hippocampus, nome do nosso conhecido cavalo-marinho, procura manter a população dessas espécies, que estão sendo aniquiladas pela pesca predatória, pela poluição e aniquilação do seu hábitat.

A importância da não-destruição do sistema ecológico local é vital, e precisa ser reforçada, pois o turismo de massa, a falta de infraestrutura e da educação das populações cobra altos juros pelos danos produzidos. Lembre-se que apenas dezessete por cento dos fluidos e esgotos de Recife são recolhidos e tratados!

A impressão de ver cavalos-marinhos deslocando-se entre os recifes, quando fazíamos mergulho, é emoção de não se apagar tão cedo de nossa memória. Lute pela preservação do nosso Hippocampus e do peixe-boi. Diga não à aniquilação! A extinção é para sempre!

Próximo de Itamaracá, em Igaraçu, aparece uma joia preciosa: o Convento de São Francisco, quase todo restaurado, apresentando murais com azulejos portugueses e uma pinacoteca fantástica. Inclusive enviou ao Museu Guggenheimer, em 2002, dois retábulos, peças para a Exposição de Arte Barroca Brasileira em Nova Iorque.

Igaraçu, significando canoa grande na língua dos índios, possui a mais antiga igreja do Brasil, pois a de São Vicente, pioneira, foi destruída.

Uma das particularidades locais, ensinadas pelo guia e orientador, é que Santo Antônio foi eleito vereador perpétuo da prefeitura local, inclusive com remuneração. No dia 13 de junho, dia do santo, os valores recebidos são distribuídos entre os pobres da cidade. Entre as peculiaridades levantadas, lembramos uma expressão usual que vem de tempo antigo. A responsabilidade pela execução e montagem das telhas de barro era dos escravos, que usavam suas coxas como molde, o que não significava nenhum padrão de qualidade ISO. Como era necessário produzir sem perder tempo, o costume nos legou a expressão: “Feito nas coxas”, que significa feito às pressas, sem cuidados.

Aliás, as telhas eram importantes na época, pois os holandeses atacaram e saquearam Igaraçu, principalmente para roubar as telhas, necessárias à complementação das edificações de Recife.

Diz a tradição que apenas o Convento de São Francisco não foi destelhado, pois os holandeses que subiram em busca do seu botim, morreram ao caírem do telhado, por efeito da cólera divina, lenda que o povo repete até hoje.

Com suas praias em 180 km de extensão, Pernambuco nos brinda com grandes atrações, desde os mergulhos na Coroa do Avião, nas piscinas afastadas a 3 e 5 km da costa em Itamaracá, aos passeios pelos mangues de Maria Farinha, até as belas praias, mas poluídas, de Recife. No entanto, as joias da Coroa se encontram ao sul. Lembramos Porto de Galinhas, com seus aquários e piscinas naturais que surgem durante a maré baixa. Muro Alto apresenta um grande paredão de coral e rocha, formando uma piscina com mais de cinco km de extensão entre o mar e a areia. Ali se encontram hotéis fantásticos, como o Nannai e o Summerville. Maracaipe é ponto de encontro do surf internacional e sede do projeto Hippocampus.

No entanto, pequenas pousadas, mais baratas, possibilitam ao turista comum apreciar as águas claras e tépidas desse paraíso. O interessante é que, com duas marés por dia, a mesma praia se apresenta de forma diferente. No início calma, tranqüila e pacífica, e depois com ondas violentas.

Escolha a hora, e terá a praia que desejar.

Na volta, passando pela pequena Vila de Nossa Senhora do “Ó”, encontramos a árvore de Saint Exupéry. Um baobá gigantesco, com mais de vinte metros de diâmetro e que teria sido trazido e plantado pelos escravos há mais de 400 anos. À noite, com suas flores brancas, como velas pendentes, essa árvore símbolo acende para a noite. É beleza e perfume para não se esquecer.

Não falarei sobre a culinária, pois teria outro artigo a escrever. Apenas lembro os peixes grelhados à beira da praia ou dentro de uma piscina natural, longe da costa, para onde uma jangada solitária levou este turista.

O folclore com as suas “Emboladas”, o “Bumba meu Boi”, bem como as carnes rústicas do interior, são paixões que ficarão para outra oportunidade.

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