São Petersburgo. Janela da Federação Russa para o Mundo

St.Petersburgo.Janela da Federação Russa no Báltico Felipe Daiello

São Petersburgo. A janela da Rússia para o Mar Báltico

Olhando o antigo mural, representação do comércio mantido no Báltico em 1600, onde as flâmulas suecas predominavam, é possível imaginar o desafio de Pedro I, o grande Czar Russo, para obter uma saída, um porto para os mares do norte. De Novgorod, a antiga capital, até o mar a extensão era imensa. Com a queda de Constantinopla, as saídas para o Mar Negro, para o sul, se fechavam. O gigante urso russo estava engaiolado, numa prisão. A libertação exigia uma guerra contra a Suécia, a senhora dos mares bálticos e a introdução de novos conceitos de comércio, de engenharia e de administração nas terras incultas do seu grande império. Era vital construir uma frota, modificar estruturas e tradições, cortar as barbas dos nobres boiardos. Disfarçado, o futuro czar viaja pela Europa, precisa conhecer e trazer para Rússia as novidades de uma Europa em expansão e recuperar o atraso feudal da sua pátria.

Agora, vendo a procissão de embarcações que se aproximam dos pântanos existentes junto ao Delta do Rio Neva, ainda existem antigos resquícios, podemos ver a eficácia das medidas tomadas a mais de 300 anos. Parece uma pista de voo, apenas as aeronaves estão substituídas por navios e o intervalo entre eles é de 5 minutos, tanto na entrada como na saída do canal de acesso.

O porto, extensões modernas, cais ampliados, espaço para conteineres, ocupa áreas imensas. Após a queda do Muro de Berlim, das dificuldades políticas, da quebra do orgulho nacional, podemos perceber uma renovação. A quantidade de produtos que chega e sai é fantástica. Material para construção de oleodutos, perfis metálicos, equipamentos para novas fábricas, fertilizantes, estão ao lado de minério de ferro em pelotas, alumínio em barras e madeira bruta. A vigilância da área portuária é militar. O acesso de pessoas locais é bastante difícil, a fiscalização exagerada.

São Petersburgo, nome alterado em função das políticas de cada época, continua a sua expansão: Petergrad até 1917, Leningrado até 1991; denominações transitórias. Principalmente na periferia existe uma explosão imobiliária; o preço do metro quadrado da construção civil alcança valores estratosféricos. A população afirma não haver desemprego, no entanto, a influência de poderosos grupos de investidores aumenta sem parar. Fala-se muito em máfia russa, na venda de proteção para novos negócios. Milionários ocupam posições de destaque, nas notícias dos jornais, pela construção dos seus palácios e residências; são como czares sem coroa, mas com excesso de divisas. Os preços estão bem elevados, até simples lembrança para turistas não tem mais o preço convidativo de antes.

Para conhecer a Veneza Russa, passeios pelos canais e pelo Rio Neva são essenciais. Palácios e pontes são referências a buscar durante o percurso.

O cruzador Aurora, hoje um museu, lembra os dias tumultuados daquele outubro vermelho em 1917. No Palácio de Inverno encontramos a coleção fantástica do Hermitage. O Palácio Yusupov recorda o assassinato do monge Rasputin, conselheiro político da última czarina. A fortaleza de Pedro e Paulo constitui bastião sobre o rio Neva. Nela encontramos a catedral de mesmo nome, onde estão depositados os despojos de Nicolau II, último czar russo, agora elevado a categoria de Santo pela Igreja Ortodoxa Russa. A torre dourada da Igreja do Sangue Derramado recorda o local do atentado terrorista que matou Alexandre II. Outro domo dourado assinala a catedral de São Isaac, antigo museu do comunismo. Belonaves de guerra, tripulações em traje de gala, desfile impecável, recordam que estamos na semana comemorativa da Armada Russa do Báltico. São modelos, superados alguns , de uma superpotência em decadência, mas não vencida.

O cerco de Leningrado, 900 dias durante a 2ª Guerra Mundial, provocou estragos nos prédios históricos e a morte, pela fome, de centenas de milhares de pessoas entre a população civil e soldados. Todas as praças foram transformadas em hortas coletivas, mas para manter a moral a Sétima Sinfonia de Dmitriy Shostakovich foi retransmitida por rádios e alto-falantes para toda a população. A cidade não se rendeu.

São Petersburgo, pela arquitetura e pela cultura desenvolvida, é a cidade mais ocidental da Rússia. Interessante, imperdível, a visão obtida quando se passeia pelos diversos canais que cortam a cidade. Usar os passos é outra alternativa.

Para conhecer a Versalhes criada por Pedro o Grande, basta pegar um barco rápido e atravessar o Golfo da Finlândia. Em trinta minutos chegamos ao Palácio de Verão com seus jardins, seu pavilhão de caça e suas fontes monumentais.

Estamos no início de julho, ainda no período das noites brancas de Dostoiévski O pr do sol ocorre perto da meia-noite. Temos muitas horas para aproveitar, antes do cansaço fechar nossos olhos. Mas é, no amanhecer, quando os primeiros raios solares tocam os domos e as agulhas das igrejas e catedrais que podemos sentir a emoção de desvendar São Petersburgo.

Felipe Daiello

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