Semana Santa na Nicarágua

A costa da Nicarágua, vista do Oceano Pacífico, se mostra bastante acidentada. O porto de San Juan del Sur está a vista com seus navios pesqueiros. Maior país em extensão da América Central, devido aos conflitos internos, às guerras civis, aos terremotos e furacões, centenas de milhares de pessoas fugiram para os países vizinhos. São os novos escravos…

“Não temos esperanças, o desemprego é elevado, não há o que fazer”. — foram as palavras do nosso jovem guia.

Antes da escolha definitiva do Panamá, a Nicarágua com seus lagos era uma possibilidade real de conectar dois oceanos.

Desde a colonização espanhola, a Nicarágua sempre esteve dividida. As oligarquias de Leon e Granada, principais cidades, brigavam para escolher a capital. A solução política foi escolher outra cidade. Manágua em posição intermediária surge como solução; foi a alternativa política.

Pela Pan-americana, estrada em excelentes condições, quase alcançamos a capital e o famoso lago Manágua. Ranchos pobres, piso de terra, gado magro e escasso surge na paisagem. A vigilância policial é intensa. As metralhadoras estão presentes.

Ainda se percebe vestígios dos conflitos; hospitais e prédios destruídos aguardam recuperação. Monumentos à guerrilha estão presentes, visíveis. Recordamos nomes e fatos. Sandino, Somoza, Violeta Chamorro. O financiamento do governo Reagan aos contra revolucionários; os helicópteros soviéticos, a venda de armas superfaturadas ao Irã. Foram vinte anos de sangue e destruição.

Agora, antigo líder sandinista foi eleito presidente. A Venezuela de Chaves, de Maduro ainda está presente no palco. Como será o final da peça?

Esquecida pelos homens, mas não pelos deuses coléricos e vingativos da terra, os vulcões presentes não trazem dádivas. O Masaya apresenta acesso fácil até as suas bordas. Furacões em parceria com os vulcões geram torrentes de lama; cidades e áreas rurais desaparecem na confusão.

Nossa passagem coincide com a Semana Santa. Nosso objetivo: acompanhar os festejos e as procissões. O que veremos nesta terra esquecida?

Bem no interior do vilarejo de Catarina, junto a laguna Apoio, antiga cratera de vulcão, era momento de iniciar nossa peregrinação.

Na quinta-feira, igrejas fechadas, apenas a cerimônia do lava- pés. Mas na sexta-feira, bem cedo, ruas e vielas enfeitadas, flores e verdes ornamentais, começa a procissão. Os crentes, mais por costume do que pela fé, acompanham os andores. São dois. No principal segue a imagem do Cristo Crucificado e ao lado, suportado apenas por mulheres, temos a figura da Mãe Dolorosa.

O cortejo se desloca entre as capelas e as igrejas do local. Na frente, o sacerdote, paramentos tradicionais com o vermelho ritual, está acompanhado de acólitos e coroinhas. Atrás, na confusão da multidão, uma pequena banda, desorganizada e sem comando, ergue acordes tristes e lamentos de agonia de séculos passados.

Em cada parada, uma homília é dedilhada. Canções e rezas. A marcha é retomada.

O sol intenso apresenta, como cogumelos, as sombrinhas coloridas. As mulheres de preto, nada cantam, têm papel secundário. O calor, o cansaço, misturam-se ao suor dos corpos e dos espíritos no decorrer dos minutos. Absorto, perco-me na multidão ao tentar fotos. Preciso gravar sentimentos. Esqueço que preciso continuar a viagem.

O perfume do incenso, presença forte, vence a indiferença de muitos. Rostos escuros, corpos pequenos pedem atenção, têm esperanças.

No alto dos morros, Catarina é cidade das flores, das folhagens, das belezas e muitas cores, mas os serviços públicos são precários. A vida é complicada na Nicarágua

Em Mainara, famosa pelo mercado de artesanatos, a multidão é bem maior, as ruas e igrejas estão cheias. Os andores são mais vistosos, as imagens, com roupas superiores, traduzem igual o drama do Calvário.

No entanto, na colonial Granada, ponto alto da visita, surpresa pela restauração e recuperação dos antigos prédios do século XVIII e final do século XIX. Não esperávamos tanta beleza: conventos, residências, igrejas e praça central. As igrejas e a catedral permanecem fechadas, abrem apenas quando chega o cortejo ritual.

Como sempre “Mater Dolorosa” é suportada por mulheres. As lágrimas estão visíveis na face de porcelana da Santa, espada atravessada ao peito reflete a dor da perda, a angústia prolongada pela morte do filho do Senhor.

O cenário está perfeito, apenas o calor excessivo do meio-dia abafa os ânimos e acelera o cansaço. Os andores são imensos, o fardo exige redobrado esforço dos fiéis. Faces escuras, suor permanente, perfumes dos corpos, misturam fé e devoção. O ritmo dos passos é marcado pela vibração dos metais e acordes dos tambores. Hipnotizam as pessoas, figurantes secundários, tentando esconder ansiedade e emoções. No meio da procissão não há como escapar, não se pode ficar indiferente. Mesmo um ateu, um soluço, uma lágrima, não deixará escapar!

Num ritmo estranho, crescente, os andores oscilam, para lá e para cá, sem saírem do lugar. Uma onda estacionária preenche os vazios das ruas. Em transe, todos esperam o momento adequado. Os segundos fluem. Não é ainda o momento. Do embalo, do ritmo não consigo escapar. Oscilo como folha perdida, espero o momento de escapar pelos ares.

O movimento, oscilante não cessa, os passos não avançam, mesmo saindo do lugar. Sem adiantar um centímetro; não avançam ou recuam, uma ondulação, como transe hipnótica engloba Granada.

Então, como ensaiado ou não, por sinal misterioso ou comando de voz, a procissão reassume posição de avanço pela rua principal. Agora tem rumo e destino, corre lenta para a Catedral.

Felipe Daiello

Autor de “Palavras ao Vento e Rodas da Fortuna ”.

Editora AGE

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