Tallin. Uma Cidade Medieval da Estônia

Tallin.Cidade Medieval da Estônia

Tallin. Uma cidade medieval

De Helsinque, são apenas 82 quilômetros pelo Golfo da Finlândia até esta cidade medieval da antiga Liga Hanseática. Mencionada nos relatos de 800 d.C., numa colina — Toompea Hill — foram construídas as primeiras proteções. Ainda encontramos torres e muros fortificados, preservação perfeita das defesas da época medieval. O trajeto, a pé, segue por ruelas estreitas até a Torre Margaret na porta de acesso, junto ao porto. Apesar das guerras, o casco antigo ficou intocado. A Estônia comemora, agora, apenas 90 anos de independência republicana. O grande irmão russo sempre cobiçou estas terras, tendo Pedro, o Grande, em 1710 ocupado a região. Foi difícil manter a unidade nacional, preservar a língua e costumes ao longo do tempo. Na época dos czares, foram feitas tentativas da russificação total da Estônia. Independente após a 1ª Guerra Mundial, em 1939 cai novamente sobre a influência de Moscou. Por isso uniu-se às forças alemãs na luta contra o antigo inimigo. Após a derrota em 1945, a política de Stalin era de exterminar a cultura estoniana: milhares de colonos russos, invasores sem armas, foram deslocados para a Estônia.

Os melhores empregos, as novas habitações, eram destinados apenas aos russos. Quase metade da população era de etnia russa. Após a nova independência, um processo de limpeza étnica e cultural se fazia necessário.

Em 1980, durante as Olimpíadas realizadas em Moscou, as competições de vela foram deslocadas para as praias de Tallin; foi construído um complexo marítimo junto ao Parque de Pirita, pois o mar ficava bem longe do Kremlin.

Hoje, após a independência em 1991, 35% da população ainda fala apenas o russo. Apesar do idioma oficial ser o estoniano, do estudo obrigatório da língua pátria, sem o que não se pode chegar ao parlamento e a cargos políticos, persistem brigas internas estimuladas pela política de Putin e de Dimitri Medvedev. O que pode fazer uma nação de um milhão e meio de habitantes frente ao colosso da Federação Russa?

A visita ao antigo porto hanseático nos remete ao tempo dos cavaleiros teutões que foram chamados, em 1193, por ordem do Papa Celestino III, para combater as tribos pagãs da região do Báltico. De libertadores eles passaram a conquistadores. Nas igrejas, dependuradas nas paredes e colunas, encontramos os antigos brasões dos nobres germânicos, donos absolutos do comércio, da política e da administração. Tallin apresenta arquitetura típica de cidade alemã. Na Alemanha apenas encontramos restaurações.

O interessante é descobrir, presos nas paredes das lojas, bares e restaurantes, os antigos símbolos medievais que mostravam aos consumidores o que poderiam encontrar em cada estabelecimento. Como muitos não sabiam ler e escrever, não adiantava colocar letreiros. Era necessário usar a imaginação para mostrar que naquele local uma cerveja estava disponível e um javali assado era a opção da janta.

Após a visita à Catedral Ortodoxa Alexandre Nevisky e da Catedral Gótica de Santa Maria, construção do século XIV, passando pelas ruelas estreitas e espremidas, podemos imaginar a época de ouro deste porto do Báltico. O melhor de tudo é visitar as antigas estalagens e tavernas. Servidos por pessoas com roupas do tempo em que a América era desconhecida, podemos degustar os pratos servidos a antigos marinheiros e comerciantes. É momento de apreciar a cerveja servida em tempos onde a capital da Rússia era Novogorod e São Petersburgo apenas um sonho flutuando sobre os pântanos do delta do Rio Neva.

Para os conservadores, um ganso com recheio de maçãs e ameixas, acompanhado da cerveja local — a Saku — talvez fosse o mais adequado.

Em pergaminhos antigos, tentei decifrar antigas receitas, onde as carnes de caça eram a especialidade do dia. Para matar a sede, tinha nas mãos taças de porcelana finamente decoradas. Cervejas estranhas, sabores e contrastes esquisitos, eram a surpresa. Nas paredes, mapas do Báltico antigo mostravam a importância da Liga de Comércio Hanseático: Rostok, Lubeck, Gdansk, Tallin eram os nomes dos portos por onde fluíam as riquezas dos países do norte européu, em tempo onde a Descoberta do Brasil era apenas um sonho de Portugal.

Felipe Daiello

Autor de “As Minhas Ilhas” e

Palavras ao Vento”

Editora AGE

daiello@cpovo.net

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  221. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  224. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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  226. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  229. This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of “neighbors” will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune “Social” is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

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  231. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

  232. The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

  233. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

  234. This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of “neighbors” will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune “Social” is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

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